Caring for your Motorcycle in Winter
Ah it's that time of year again, in the Northern hemisphere anyway. The first frosts have started, nights drawing in and the cold and damp are here until February at least. So aside form digging out thermal and lined trousers now is the time to check and clean your ride.
Cleaning serves 2 purposes, firstly it keep a very expensive piece of kit smart and well groomed, much like me, and it allows you to spot any areas where there may be maintenance issues, such a rust damage, low tyre pressures and loose fastners and connections. This guide is written with the intention that your ride will be in use during the next 4 months, and not laid up, I'll touch on that later.
BODY WORK.
Starting with the easy bits, body panels and fuel tank. Basicall where there's paint wipe over the area with a soft rag or cloth, old bed linen is fantatsic for this as it has virtually no lint. The purpose of doing this is to remove particals of dust, dirt and road muck such as salt and tar. If you encounter tar or other stubborn stains go for using WD40 with a little effort if will remove tar, this also works on car body panels. Any lose decals and fastners should be reapplied, tightened or removed. With decal sometimes a sticky residue remains, so remove this with WD40.
Next remove the seat and hand wash the panels with a wax based shampoo, not wahing up liquid! There are loads about, and finding the right one is a personal choice. Shammy the panels down until they are dry and streak free. Next apply wax to all painted surfaces. the best technique is to use your linen rag and dampen it, don't soak it. Then apply wax to the cloth, not the body work. Apply in a circluar motion whilst quoting The Karate Kid (Optional. Leave the wax to mist up, this is important. Then with a dry rag buff off the white residue and shiny body work is yours. For a deeper shine, or if the bike hasn't been polished for some time, apply several coats. the wax will protect the body work from the ravages of winter.
Chrome plated body work should be cleaned with an agent such as Autosol paste. Apply this paste with a damp cloth and work into the metal/chromium parts of the engine/frame. Smaller or awkwadr areas can be cleaned with a small brush, such as a toothbrush. Whislt doing so check that the part suffers no undue movement, if it does, tighten away! Allow the paste to whiten and then buff up with a rag, or buff ball or similar.
WHEELS.
These can be cleaned in one of 3 ways. If they are chronium plated and spoked a carefull wash with a rag and dry will remove the worst of the dirt, if there are stubborn marks or chain oil on the rear wheel, WD40 or GUNK. Wipe the spokes down then apply polish such as Autosol Liquid Chrome cleaner. Apply as you would wax. This will protect the spokes. To check the tightness of the spokes run a flatbladed screw driver around both sides of the wheel slowly. Any loose spokes can be identified as they will give as the screwdriver hits them. Raise wheel from ground and tighten loose spokes. To aid identification of loose spokes place a strip of masking tape on the offending spoke.
If you have plastic or coloured wheels then a good wash with a rag and use WD40 or Gunk to remove the grease and muck. You can use a body wax to bring the wheels up if you wish.
Finally If you have alloy wheels then DO NOT WASH YET! Treat the entire wheel with wonderwheels or similar. When applying this stuff wear a set of rubber gloves as the liquid is an irritant. If it gets on your skin wash it off immediately! The liquid should foam up. Once your satisfied wash the wheel s down with water, worry not your rubber won't be effected.
Check Tyre pressures are correct for your ride and check the tread surface of the tyre. If your not sure how much tread you need there should be a wear indicator on the mouling of the tread, it looks like a length of rubber gapping part of the tread pattern. If this is flush with the surface of the tyre, new rubber is needed.
BRAKES.
They can save your live so do check them regularly. Check the fluid reservoirs and the pads. The reserviours are easy enough, look in the window and check the middle of the buble, or fluid line with the lower/Max mark on the the reservoir, always use DOT 4 for your brakes. To check pad, you may need to remove these. Like tyres they have a wear guage that identifies there effectiveness. If you fit new brake pads ensure the brakes are bleed correctly.
ELECTRICS.
Oh that joy of joys please ensure that the key is no where near the igniton at this point, put it somewhere safe, such as a pocket or even better another room. After enjoying the summer the electrics will need a quick check. This is straight forward, so worry not. Firstly remove the battery and ensure that the breather tube is clear, if not try to clean, or replace, check regualrly as this will get fouled up over the coming winter months. Next on a level surface check the acid levels. If they are low simply refill the cells with deionised water only, tap water will damage the plates! If you have a strip bundg be careful not to splash acd on to skin, if you do wash with plenty of water. To refill the cells invest in a large sryinge. You can buy these for around 75 pence from a Pharmacy or country side suppliers. Simply remove the plunger and pour the water into the chamber until the cell is at the correct level, replace cell cover and wipe away any spilt water. If your battery is maintainence free then reove the negative lead at this point.
Check all fuses are seated correctly and lines are in place, most power problems can be traced back to a loose connection form the fuse box. Next check connectors, such as HT leads, starter leads and lighting/indictaor relays. If you are not sure on how long the spark plugs have been in use replace them. This may involve fuel tank removal. Exercise caution, no smoking, and remember a full fuel tank can be both heavy and awkwards. If you do replace spark plugs ensure that they are gapped correctly.
Replace the battery and reconnect, live first followed by negative. A good move is to cover the terminals with LM grease as this prevents corrosion, and water intrusion. Once this is done place the key in the ignbitoin and check all lights and indictaors. A good idea at this point is to check the return spring on the foot brake. these are fragile and can often suffer from rust damage, if it is damaged, replace.
OIL.
Easy enough really. Change it if it needs it, other wise ensure the level is correct. If you do change the oil I suggest changing the filter also and plesae ensure you use the right grade of oil. Check the old oil for a metalic appearence, if it has it there something wrong inside and reffer the matter to a trained mechanic, if there appears to be strips of cotton thread then the clutch could be wearing. Ideally the oil will be a very dark brown.
WATER COOLED?
If your ride is water cooled check the system throughly. If the level is low ensure anti-freeze/water mix is correct and top up. Check hosing for cracks and replace in nesscessary.
FRAME
Throughout the cleaning process check the frame for rust. This normally appears at weld joints and fixing points. If you find rust remove it with a small wire brush until bare metal is exposed. Once this has occurred repaint with either a metal paint or a plastic coat.
RUST
This will occur naturally. On chromium parts it can be removed with an application of a metal cleaner, on other parts with either a very fine wet or dry(1200+), or wire brush. Areas that are susceptable to rust such as stands and peg joints should be rag cleaned and greased regularly.
LAID UP PREPARATIONS.
Simple enough, just follow these steps.
1) Disconnect battery.
2) Draw lever in and hold in place with a thick rubber band.
3) Remove spark plgs and pop a couple of drop of engine oil into the cylinders, replace plugs.
4) Place bike on centre stand or a paddock stand.
5) Carefully Drain the fuel tank, remember petrol is 97% water!
6) Cover and leave for the winter.
If you follow these hints they may save you problems in the long run.
