What you need to know before Buying a Motorcycle

From 3arf

The decision has been made.  You want to join the thousands who are enjoying the freedom of two wheels, or perhaps three. Regardless, you want to get out of the car, the “cage”, and get your “knees in the breeze”. But like most of life’s decisions, one decision begets a myriad of additional decisions. In order to make a rational decision the prospective motorcycle owner needs information.

When gasoline prices burst through the $2.00 level the motorcycle population began to grow rapidly. New riders and people who rode in their teen years and are returning to riding in their 50’s are joining the existing riding population. The Governors Highway Safety Association (http://www.ghsa.org/html/publications/pdf/spotlights/spotlight_motorcycles12.5.pdf) reported an increase in motorcycle registrations from 4.4 million in 2000 to 7.3 million in 2009, over a 60% increase of riders on the road. Unfortunately motorcycle fatalities have followed this statistical curve. So the first piece of information required is what category does the prospective buyer fit into?

The New Rider.

Take the Basic Rider Safety Course from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. While not all states require training, this course is still an imperative. No, your buddy who already rides is not qualified to train you, your father or other relative is not qualified to train you either. You do not need someone else’s bad habits or unfounded opinions. Train with someone who knows what you need to survive on the street as a “newbie”.  Many motorcycle dealers offer courses and some even provide suitable sized motorcycles to learn on. All you need is a helmet and proper clothing and a willingness to learn.

The Returning Rider.

Take the Basic Rider Safety Course from the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Perhaps not as imperative as for a new rider, it is still strongly suggested that a returning rider refresh his skills.

Now that our new and returning riders have brushed up their riding skills and can join the current riding population, it is again decision time. The most common motorcycle classifications are listed here and can be found described in various enthusiast magazines such as Cycle World, American Iron, Rider Magazine and Cyclist. So here we must decide what type of riding is planned and what is the appropriate bike?

The Dirt Bike.

These motorcycles range from 50 cc through 450 cc, and an increase in engine size means more power and demands more skillful riding ability. The new rider should begin with something less than 250 cc and ride in the company of more experienced riders until he develops dirt riding skills. The returning rider should follow the same advice. Should a current street rider take up playing in the dirt it would behoove him to join the new and returning riders.

The Adventure Bike.

This is a relatively new classification of motorcycle that is somewhat a cross between a dirt bike and a street bike, or a street bike with some off-road capability. This may be a classification the new rider aspires to, but he needs to develop some experience first. Returning riders or current riders will fit into this class of motorcycle without too much trouble if they have had some off-road experience. If not, they would be advised to take it carefully, like the new rider.

The “Naked Bike”.

This is a street motorcycle sans windshield, fairing, saddlebags and the assorted accoutrements to be discussed in the next classifications. This motorcycle represents the essence of early motorcycles, very basic two wheel transportation. It can range in size from 250 cc up to in excess of 2000 cc.  The new rider would be well served by a motorcycle in this class in the 250 cc to 750 cc range; OK, up to 883 cc for the Harley fan. The returning rider should consider motorcycles in this class as well.

This would be a good time to add a note of caution.  There are sport bikes, commonly referred to as “crotch rockets”, some of which will fall into this engine size range.  A 650 cc “rocket” is capable of in excess of 150 MPH and extreme acceleration and is not appropriate for a new rider. The new rider should start with a “naked” or one of the cruiser type motorcycles.  The new rider may be ready to move up with a season’s experience and he will find a healthy market for his starter bike with next season’s new riders.

The Cruiser.

With engines in the same range as the “naked bike” the cruiser is really the same motorcycle with some additions.  This motorcycle is designed for rides to and from work, weekend cruising and general fun in the wind.  It has some conveniences such as a windshield and perhaps a fairing, a passenger seat and a luggage rack.  You may also find highway pegs, engine bars and additional lights. The new rider should follow the same recommendations in engine size as listed above.

With the inclusion of a passenger seat comes a new responsibility.  The new rider and returning rider should be sure they have the confidence and ability to safely carry a passenger or ride solo.

The Bagger.

This motorcycle adds saddlebags to the cruiser as well as additional luggage capacity behind the passenger. Heated seats and hand grips to help on those cold mornings, radio with a speaker system and various other conveniences. This is the traveler’s motorcycle used for everything from cruising to cross country trips. Fully loaded a bagger can weigh in at 1,300 lbs. so the rider should be well experienced. This is not new rider or returning rider territory.

A note of caution would be well placed here. Some of these heavyweights have greater volume capacity than weight carrying ability. Some riders have managed to overload the bikes with passengers and luggage which can be dangerous.

Trikes.

Two types of trikes are on the market today. The traditional trike is a three wheeler, with the two rear wheels driven. It has been joined by the Can-Am Spyder type with two wheels up front and the single rear wheel driving. Both designs handle differently than a two wheel motorcycle.  Being more stable than a two wheel motorcycle, any of the rider classifications can handle these machines. Further, some older riders who had to abandon the two wheel bikes have found new life with the trike.

It should be noted that the traditional trike configuration, though more stable than a two wheeler when at rest, has an inherent instability in corners at speed. Aggressive cornering can result in an upset if the rider is not paying attention.

Summary.

Before purchasing a motorcycle, a rider should be aware of his/her skill level and buy a bike commensurate with that level. Understand how you intend to use the motorcycle and purchase a machine that meets that specification. Take the necessary training class and purchase the proper clothing and helmet.

A word about proper motorcycle gear would be appropriate here. In some states wearing a helmet is a rider’s choice; other states make it a requirement. Bikers are an independent bunch but a new rider, especially, should wear a helmet. Eye protection is important, and your Ray-Bans are not adequate. Sandals and shorts are not appropriate motorcycle attire, so purchase a good pair of boots that will protect your ankles and wear long pants at a minimum.

The simple fact is that it is very likely that you will drop the bike during training or early in your biking career.  Newbie, dress for the accident; leather wears better than skin when dragged on asphalt.  A tip over doesn’t have to be the end of your ride.

Ride safe and remember, only a biker understands why a dog sticks his head out of a moving car’s window.

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