Brake Pads for Dummies
Front Brakes For Dummies
Changing your front brakes is the simplest repair that you routinely must do every six to ten-thousand miles. When your car lets out that annoying squeal, and the grind of metal to metal, you know what's next. Every brake pad is supplied with what we in the mechanics field call, a squelcher. A lip of steel protrudes from the inner-side of the brake pad and touches the rotor when brakes are worn down to their specified limit according to the manufacturer. That is the common sound, that the unknowing "freak out" about as being some terrible malfunction of the vehicle. Just look at it like an alarm system for brakes, and don't worry, it's fixable.
What you need
1. Jack
2. Two Jack-stands
3. Alan Wrench (or star wrench for some models)
4. Tire Iron
5. Large C-Clamp
Removal Of Old Brake Pads
The first thing you want to do is to loosen the lugs on your wheels, just enough to break free from the rim. Then, jack up your car, one side at a time. As you jack up one side, place your jack stand firmly on the axle. (Note: Be sure that you have the parking brake on and blocks positioned behind the rear wheels just for safety.) Repeat the action on the other side. Now, remove the wheels from the vehicle, and turn the steering wheel in one direction all the way. (This step allows for easier access to use tools, as this is a very tight space to work.) Open the hood of the vehicle and remove the cap from the master cylinder on the back of the drivers side, this will be needed later.
Now is where either the star-wrench, Alan wrench, or standard open-ended wrench come in, (depending on the model and make of your specific vehicle.) On the inside of the brake assembly, there is a brake rotor (which looks like a steel wheel) and the brake shoes, which "clamp" from both sides on the outer side of the rotor. From the inside, you will see two mechanical bolts holding the shoe in place. This will either have a standard open-ended head, star inset, or Alan wrench inset bolt. (Star wrench looks like a star, Alan wrench, is simply a hexagon inset into bolt.) Remove these bolts, and pull the shoe away from the rotor. You may have to twist forward and backward to loosen the grip of the shoe to the rotor.
Once you have removed the brake shoe, you will find two pads on either side of the shoe. One is simply pulled out, the other clamps to the shoe with a butterfly clamp. A little tugging, and they will break free. (Be careful not to put pressure on the brake line, as this may cause damage to the line.)
Now you want to take your c-clamp and position it in the center of the "boot", (a small circular, hollow center that protrudes, pushing your pads together), and turn the c-clamp until the boot is flush with the inner-surface of the shoe. Now you are ready for the new brakes........ and it only gets easier.
Installing New Brake Pads
Now, take your brake pads, they only fit one way. Just be sure that you place them in snuggly against the shoe. Take your shoe and place it back into position to the rotor. Re-install your bolts and put your wheels back on. You may now lower the vehicle. Now, remember that cap on the master cylinder that you removed? Put it back on being sure it seals correctly. (This was taken off to prevent air from getting in the brake lines while pushing the boot back into "re-set" position.)
Start your car, as this will build up the pressure in the brake line. Push on the brake pedal multiple times, until you feel a lot of resistance. Your brakes should be set. Take the vehicle for a test drive, slow at first. If your brakes aren't hard to push to the floor, pump your brake pedal some more. See......... it wasn't that hard.
