ALT-2 Troubleshooting Engine Won’t Start
Click, click, click. Turning the key in the ignition of your car gives this dreaded sound. You hear click, click, click, but what it means is "it ain't happening today."
How can you take that click, click, click and determine what is preventing your engine from starting?
Whatever you do, DO NOT turn on the headlights or the radio and because they work believe your battery is fine. A car engine starter is normally the highest drawing power component from the battery in the car. Everything else may work, BUT if the battery isn't quite up to charge, the engine will not turn over.
First, check your battery cables. If there is crusted corrosion or if you car has been sitting for a length of time (usually more than a month) the cables can grow a buildup that interferes with the transfer of the power from the battery through the cables to the starter.
This does not require any money to do. Loosen one cable at a time and clean with a knife, steel wool, or wire brush. Clean the inside of the terminal cable as well as the outside; shiny metal surfaces will work best. Don't forget to give a good cleaning to the battery terminal as well.
After reinstalling that cable, do the same for the other. Sometimes it can be just that simple.
If this does not solve your problem, the next step is determining if it is the battery or the starter.
There is a variety of ways to do this, however, do not try any of these methods if you are unsure what you are doing or uncomfortable doing it.
Using a multimeter set for DC voltage at least 12 volts or higher, put the red on the positive terminal of the battery and put the black on the negative terminal (assuming they are properly connected to the meter). You should read at least 12 volts with the car off. If it is 10-11 or lower, your battery has insufficient charge to complete the start cycle.
It may not necessarily mean your battery is bad. It could indicate the need for further investigation.
If you can jump start the car; using a jump start box is best. This is because you do not need a second vehicle to perform the starting sequence and you can carry one in your car for that extra boost if needed (just remember to keep it charged or it will be useless). If stranded, you aren't forced to find someone willing to give you a boost, particularly if you do not carry cables in your car, now you must find someone willing and with cables.
If the car can be started, with it running, using your multimeter again, as above, read the DC voltage. It should now be between 12-14 volts. If it is not, the problem may be your alternator/voltage regulator.
Today, many alternators have the voltage regulator inside. There are tests that can be performed on the alternators; however, some alternators can be damaged if the testing is not performed correctly. If you suspect the alternator and want it tested, try a local auto parts store, they have the portable test units that can be wheeled out to your car and tests are usually performed free of charge.
If the battery is at 12 volts then you must consider the starter. Most cars you must go under the car where the engine and transmission or transaxle -FWD - meet to find it. Ensure the positive cable from the battery is tightly connected. Sometimes nuts can work loose (if the lock washer has been left off).
Now here you can try something to see if the solenoid is the problem.
A long screwdriver carefully inserted to short across the positive terminal on the starter to a ground point should result in one of two things. Before trying this, ENSURE the car is in PARK with the parking brake firmly set. If the car starts while in gear, it will roll over whoever is under the car.
Turn the key to the normally on position with the engine running. Using the screwdriver, touch the tip to the positive post on the solenoid and lay the shaft of the screwdriver against another piece of metal along the starter. This completes the circuit and the starter should either spin or the solenoid should pop out and engage with the starter causing the engine to start.
If the engine starts, your solenoid is probably the cause of your problem. However, it could also be the ignition switch or the starter relay (if equipped with one). Maybe when turning to the start position, the switch is malfunctioning. At this point you will have to go further in depth to troubleshoot which. Of the two, solenoids have the higher failure rate, but....
What happens if you turn the key and nothing is heard from under the hood? Basically, follow the steps for the click, click, click above.
If you turn the key, the solenoid pops out and the engine rotates but does not catch and run, now what?
This is usually caused by one of two main issues; no spark or no fuel.
Now to determine which is the cause.
If you are accustomed to hearing a hum immediately after turning the key to the run position (but before going to the start detent) you are hearing an electric fuel pump.
Turn your key to the run position (do not try to start, but do not put in the accessory position for this test as it cannot be used for this test).
Immediately after turning the key to the run position, you should hear the hum. However, sometimes the pump can be broken mechanically while still making the sound. This test just does a quick check to see if the pump is turning electrically.
If so, time to determine if you have spark.
A Phillips screwdriver works best for this. Remove ONE spark plug wire and insert the tip of the screwdriver into the plug cap on the wire. Lay it along the engine where the shaft of the screwdriver is near something metallic (like exhaust manifold). ENSURE the wire AND the screwdriver cannot get into the belts or other turning components of the engine.
This will take two people. DO NOT hold the screwdriver or you can end up with curly hair or worse. The power coming from the ignition system (that creates the spark for the plug) is very high voltage, even lethal in some.
Do not do this test if there are gas fumes present (such as from a leak) as the spark can ignite the fumes resulting in an explosion.
One person will watch the screwdriver setup while the other turns the key. A spark should jump from the screwdriver shaft to the nearest metal (if close enough, remember that plugs have gaps of thousandths of an inch).
If there is spark, the problem is most likely fuel.
Clogged fuel filters, broken fuel pumps, and bad fuel pump relays can all cause the engine to turn without starting.
Bad batteries, starters, starter relays, and solenoids are typical electrical causes for an engine not turning over at all.
Ensure you use prudence when troubleshooting a car. Take a moment to think through the steps. Failing to do so can cause more problems than just being late for work. If you are uncomfortable, watch as someone else performs these steps.
With cars equipped with computers, safety switches (that do not allow the start sequence to begin until the transmission selector is in park or the clutch is depressed on a manual transmission) as well as other components, these steps may or may not solve your problem. It is impossible to cover every possibility of a failed engine start here, but the most common reasons have been explained.
It is assumed you are familiar with the car and know about the safety switches and which position the transmission selector lever (gear shift) needs to be for starting. If none of these steps resolve your problems, you have an indication of other components to check. Just remember, "Safety First" to ensure you will reach your destination
