ALT-2 How to Change a Flat Tire
If your SUV develops a sudden wobble or sounds like a helicopter hovering, chances are you have a flat tire. If Dad (or the auto club) can’t come to the rescue, you have to change it yourself. Luckily, changing flats is easier than you might think. Here are eight steps to getting back on the road in about ten minutes.
• Get as far from traffic as possible. Pull onto the shoulder or into a parking lot. If possible, park so the flat is on the curb side instead of facing traffic. Shift into Park (Reverse for a manual transmission) and set the parking brake. If you can find a large rock, branch, or wooden block, place it under the wheel diagonal from the flat to prevent rolling. Place flares or warning triangles, if you have them, to alert oncoming drivers.
• Collect your tools. You’ll need the jack, the spare tire, and a wrench. Depending on the wheels, you’ll need a key to remove locking lug nuts or a pry for wheel covers, which will be included in the vehicle’s toolkit. If you've never used the jack before, read the owner's manual: correct placement varies among vehicles. Many have markings to indicate correct locations.
• Loosen the lug nuts. You’ll need to remove wheel covers first (they pry off) or use a special key to unlock lug nuts on custom wheels (look in your glove box if it's not in the toolkit). Using the lug wrench, loosen all nuts SLIGHTLY. Remember "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey": the nuts turn counter-clockwise (left) to loosen. This is necessary because lug nuts may be so tight you can knock a vehicle off the jack trying to remove them. Loosen only, do not remove them.
• Raise the vehicle until the tire clears the ground. Large SUVs have cylinder jacks, smaller models have scissors jacks that “unfold.” Either one works by turning a crank, which often doubles as the lug wrench. Turn right to raise, left to lower. If the jack tilts during raising, lower and straighten it before continuing.
• Remove the flat. Once the wheel clears the ground, use the wrench to remove the lugs. Place removed bolts or nuts in a safe location such as in the wheel cover or on the spare. Inspect the nuts/bolts and wipe off grease, dirt, or rust. Remove the wheel by pulling straight out with hands positioned at 9:00 and 3:00, on the chance that the vehicle will fall at the exact wrong time. Set the wheel aside. Be forewarned, a wheel is surprisingly heavy.
• Install the spare. A temporary spare (rare for SUVs) smaller and narrower than the tire you removed will go straight on. For a full-size spare, you may need to raise the vehicle slightly. Install the topmost lug bolt or lug nut and hand-tighten, then repeat for the remaining nuts. It’s easier if you skip nuts: install nuts one, three, and five; then go back and install the even numbers. Once all are in place, tighten with the wrench; again, skipping around the wheel. Lug bolts or nuts have cone-shaped faces that fit into the holes to keep the wheel on tight; if a wheel can wobble when shoved the nuts aren't tight enough.
• Lower the vehicle. Once the jack is removed, use the wrench to give all the nuts a final tightening (clockwise, turning to the right). A hubcap can go back on a full-size spare, but most won't fit a "rolling doughnut."
•Put the wheel in the vehicle, put the jack away, put the parts back in the toolkit, and pull the "chock" from under the wheel. You're now good to go. If you're driving a temporary spare, remember the maximum speed and limited range of the tire.
Some helpful hints: Can't find your spare? Truck-based SUVs often store the spare beneath the body in the rear. If there's a mysterious bolt in the cargo area or a crank hole in the back bumper, chances are good that this is how it gets raised and lowered. Check the owner’s manual for clues.
