ALT-1 How to use Snow Chains
Tips for using snow chains must be both general and specific advice for "beginners" who have never used these traction devices. People who live in areas where chains are common and have experience with them may read a tip here that adds some new knowledge, but the intent is to help "newbies" get started. If you've moved into snow country, taken up skiing, snow-mobiling, changed jobs to a commute that crosses mountain passes, etc., then you may find these tips very useful. [This advice comes from 53 years experience putting chains on autos, pick-ups, farm trucks, semis, and multi-trailer big rigs in the 11 Western states.]
First, forget about actual chains, with standard links, for your automobile. Buy what are termed "cable chains." They are manufactured with aircraft cable and the crosslinks have small free rolling steel cylinders, which can move laterally on the cable, they are very lightweight, "reasonably" easy to install, and not likely to "fly" off under extreme conditions. These cable devices will work with almost all known automobiles. You have to know whether your car is front or rear wheel drive. Some front-wheel-drive cars do not have enough clearance for regular chains because the fender well is too close to the tire. As a chained tire rolls, the traction device will rise up from the tread and synchronize its rotation with the wheel speed. If you look at the chained wheels on a moving big rig, the crosslinks will be as much as 2 or 3 inches above the tread at the top and then bite into the snow or ice just before the tire rolls onto it. Properly fitted cable devices on your car will only rise about one-quarter of an inch above the tread.
Second, you will choose between a "regular" device with crosslinks that are 90 degrees to the tire tread or a device with "Z" pattern links that "criss-cross" at 60 degrees to the tread. The Z- pattern devices cost more and offer constant contact with the roadway. You will have to make this decision based on your own estimate of your own worst case driving scenario, however both work very well.
Next, if you drive a standard pickup truck, then you will want to buy link chains, especially if you pull a trailer or haul material in the bed, although cable chains can be sufficient. A pickup is more "squirrelly" than almost any auto and the heavy link chains will anchor the rear wheels better. Some link chains are made with a "diamond" pattern that keeps more of the links on the roadway. For a trailer, cable chains are fine to keep it in line behind the pickup.
Concerning the various 4-wheel-drives and SUVs, there are wildly different preferences. Many drivers can handle almost all conditions with the added traction from these vechicles and they are very popular with skiers and daily commuters. Some extreme conditions, though, may result in needing chains for even more control on compact snow and ice. Cable chains are very effective on the front of all-wheel drives.
When buying chains, it may be a very good idea to shop at a tire store in snow country. Many of them sell traction devices at or very near the same prices as a discount chain or auto supply house, and the folks at the tire store will make certain the chains exactly fit your tires and function on your vehicle. They can also advise on installation skills.
Chains go on a certain way. First, they must be on the drive wheels that power the vehicle. Then there's an "up" to the crosslinks and an inside/outside to the side chains or cables because the "fixed" attaching ends must be on the inside, and the adjustable closures must be on the outside where you can use them. And you will also have to install "tension" devices, such as a ring of rubber rope with hooks or bungee cords, that hold the chains down onto the tire tread.
Tip #1. Don't lay the chains in the snow and try to back over them and then lift the ends. Truckers "hang iron" to install chains. Drape your chains over the top of the tire and fasten the ends down at the bottom so gravity can work for you. Carry a bent coat hanger to reach the chain end that's inside (behind the tire) and pull it to meet the hooking device. Some folks carry small blocks and drive up on them, which elevates the tires out of the snow and makes it easier to fasten the attaching devices. Sometimes, though, it's not possible to drive up on the blocks.Tip #2. Put a few carpet samples in your vehicle so you can kneel on one or two. It may be wise to have a set of bib coveralls, even waterproof, to pull on. Ladies, a snowmobile suit may be a good idea. Good gloves are essential. A flashlight is very important because often, even in daylight, you can't see things back in the fender well, behind the tire.Tip #3. Now think about driving with chains on your front wheels. Imagine driving into a turn and your steer tires are solid on the road and, suddenly, your rear wheels go into a slide because of the centrifugal force of your turn. Slower is better. If you start to slide with chains on the front, things become very tricky. First, if you have a manual (stick) shift, push in the clutch and coast to let your wheels straighten out. Do not apply more power because you may flip into a 180 or even a 360 turn. If you have an automatic transmission, ease the lever into neutral and coast to let the wheels get straight again. You can also "follow-steer," which is to turn the wheels, ever so very slightly, in the same direction as the slide. Be careful, though, and don't oversteer. Take it easy.Tip #4. If you have rear wheel drive, think about how you "push" your front, steering tires. They can go into a slide and you will have to gently follow the slide by steering very slightly in the same direction. Again, push in the clutch or put the automatic transmission in neutral and coast so the wheels can straighten up.Tip #5. Slow down. About 35 miles per hour is the top speed for chains.Tip #6. After you install the chains, drive a short distance (half a mile), then stop, get out, check the chains and the tension devices. Make adjustments if the chains are loose.Tip #7. Chains need maintenance. They stretch as you drive on them. Crosslinks will break and rollers will come off. The rubber rope or bungee cords will lose elasticity and become stiff. Take care of your chains. Use care in storing them when you take them off because they'll have to go back on the tires at some point.
Take it easy, think controlled safety, don't run your chains on bare pavement for very long, and never believe that you can drive on ICE just because you've got chains on. Remember, slow down.
