ALT-1 5 do it yourself Car Fixes
The five DIY fixes listed here are actual fixes for common car problems. All of them are made the same way a professional mechanic would make them. None require crawling underneath the car, although a couple require opening the hood and one does require a car jack. Apart from jumper cables and that car jack, no specialised tools are needed.
Since you are searching for fixes, you are probably already familiar with standard DIY maintenance. By now, topping off air pressure and regular fluid changes should be old hat for you, so it won't be covered here.
1. Change a wiper blade
Wiper blades really should be replaced every six to twelve months. Even halogen-treated rubber hardens and loses flexibility with time and exposure. Honestly though, you probably will not think of it until the next time you run into a situation where your wipers cannot clear the windshield well enough for you to see through it.
You will need no tools to change a wiper blade. Check your owner's manual for the correct size. Some wiper blades have a larger blade for the driver's side than for the passenger side.
Remove the old wiper blade by releasing the tab on the underside of the wiper. Some types of wiper blades have two tabs which both have to be released. Slide the wiper blade out of its slot or, if it has a round edged pin instead, slide it sideways until it comes loose.
The key to putting on the new wiper blade is to remember that it goes on exactly the same way the old wiper blade came off. Slide the new wiper blade into the slot or onto the pin until the tab or tabs click. The new wiper blade is now locked in position.
2. Change a tire
Flat tires always happen at the most inconvenient times. Removing a flat tire and swapping in the spare is a straightforward DIY fix that will take much less time than waiting for the automobile service club vehicle to get there. On a busy highway, however, it may be safer to call and wait for help. Do not risk getting hit by traffic.
You will need a spare tire, a standard cross wrench, and a car jack.
Move your vehicle onto a level place on the shoulder of the road. Do not drive any farther than you have to, and drive slowly to protect the rim.
Turn your four-way flashers on and put on your parking brake. Put something which can work as a block against the other tires, to keep the vehicle motionless.
Place the jack under the frame of your vehicle near the flat tire. Ensure that it is firmly against the frame and not against any plastic. Jack it up just enough to be snug underneath the car and ensure it is level, but do not lift the car yet.
Remove the hub cap from the flat tire. Loosen the nuts by turning them counterclockwise with the wrench. Do not loosen one nut at a time. Instead, go around the rim in a star pattern, loosening each nut a little as you go. Do not take them all the way off yet, but break the resistance and give them a good start.
Jack your vehicle up enough that the flat tire is free of the ground. Should you notice any stability issues, jack down again and find a more level spot.
Now remove the nuts the rest of the way. Place them in the hubcap for safekeeping while you get the spare tire.
Remove the flat tire and replace it with the spare. Replace the bolts and tighten them by hand, as much as you can without forcing it. Do not use the wrench at this point.
Jack the vehicle down until the spare makes firm contact with the ground. Do not jack down all the way yet.
Tighten the nuts with the wrench, going around the rim as before. Do not apply full force yet.
Jack the vehicle down all the way. Tighten each nut in place as tightly as it will go. Replace the hubcap. The spare tire is now in place. Put the flat tire in the trunk of your vehicle, to be fixed as soon as possible.
3. Jumpstart a battery
Under normal running conditions, an automotive battery can recharge itself while the vehicle is driving, so long as the battery has no dead cells and the alternator is working. Should you leave the headlights or radio on while parked, however, you could run that charge all the way down to the point that you will be unable to start your vehicle afterward.
Extremely cold temperatures can also reduce a battery's available power. At -40 degrees (both Celsius and Fahrenheit), an automotive battery only has a quarter of its standard power available. At the same time, the power required to start the engine at that temperature ismore than three times greater than usual.
You will need jumper cables to jump start a battery. You will also need close access to another vehicle's working battery. Gloves are highly recommended. In case ofcorrosion, you will additionally need the appropriate cleaning materials, as well as goggles to protect your eyes.
Before you begin, check the dead battery carefully for cracks or leaks. Should you spot any, do not attempt to jump start the battery. The sudden charge could cause it to explode.
Determine which is the negative (-) and which is the positive (+) terminal. If necessary, clean off any corrosion around the battery terminals.
Determine which is the negative (-) jumper cable and which is the positive (+) jumper cable. Jumper cables are usually colour-coded: red for positive (+), black for negative (-).
Now, connect the jumper cables. IT IS CRUCIAL TO DO THIS IN THE CORRECT ORDER.
A. Connect one end of the positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery.B. Connect the other end of the positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the working battery.C. Connect one end of the negative (-) cable to the negative (-) terminal of the working battery.D. Connect the other end of the negative (-) cable to a non-moving, metal, grounded part of the engine bay. This will result in a spark.
Start the vehicle with the good battery and let it run to recharge the battery. After a minute or so, start the vehicle with the previously dead battery. If it does not start immediately, shut it down and let the battery continue to charge for another couple of minutes. After that, it should start up normally. Let it run for some minutes.
Disconnect the cables in the exact reverse order in which you connected them. Start by disconnecting the negative (-) cable from the engine bay, then from the negative (-) terminal of the working battery. Follow by disconnecting the positive (+) cable.
Store away the jumper cables, close both hoods, and you are done.
4. Change a standard headlight bulb
All headlight bulbs will eventually burn out. Replacing them is an easy DIY fix.
You will need the correct replacement headlight bulb, as specified in your owner's manual. No other tools should be necessary.
Open the hood and find the bulb holder at the back of the headlight. You will recognise it by the three wires in the wiring harness.
These wires are attached to a plug at the base of the headlight. The plug is attached to the car by a screw cap or clip. Release the clip and remove the plug. Set it out of the way.
Remove the bulb behind the plug. Set in the new bulb and secure it, being careful not to touch the glass with your fingers.
Replace the plug and restore the clip. Turn on your headlights to confirm that the new bulb works.
5. Change a sealed beam headlight
To change a sealed beam headlight, you do not have to open the hood of the car. You can do it right from the front.
You will need the correct replacement headlight unit. You will also need a penetrating solvent and a Phillips head screwdriver or Torx tool, as specified by your owner's manual. Should you find corrosion on the sealed beam connector socket, you will also need an aerosol electric contact cleaner. Damage to the wires will require electrical tape.
Remove the chrome ring or plastic bezel holding the headlight in place using the screwdriver or Torx tool as necessary.
Identify which screws are the retaining screws and which screws are the aiming screws. The retaining screws are evenly spaced around a rectangular or round metal retaining ring. There are two aiming screws per headlight: one on the top or bottom, one to the side. Be careful not to disturb the aiming screws.
Spray the retaining screws with the solvent. Hold the headlight in its socket as you remove them in order and place them safely aside. Once the screws have been removed, lower the headlight from its socket.
You should now be able to see the wiring connector on the back of the sealed beam. Pull the wiring connector off the sealed beam's prongs. A two headlight system will have three prongs on the back, while a four headlight system will have only two prongs. Check the wires for any damage or fraying, and clean off any corrosion from the connector socket, if necessary.
Insert the wiring connector onto the prongs of the new unit. Place the new sealed beam in its receptacle, being careful to line up the bumps of the headlight with the dimples of the headlight socket. When everything aligns, the unit is rightside up and the writing on the lens should also be rightside up.
Restore the retaining ring and screw it back into place. Once the headlight is secure in its socket, restore the chrome ring or plastic bezel over the headlight and screw it into place. Turn on your headlights to confirm that the new unit works.
